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Thread: Has anyone had binding plastic crack when using loctite for plates or inserts?

  1. #1
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    Has anyone had binding plastic crack when using loctite for plates or inserts?

    I've been swapping between new sth 14 drivers and new dynafit tlt speed bindings with sollyfit swap plates for one year now. The system is pretty convenient when using the T-handle wrench purchased from the Binding Freedom store. However, I have noticed some pretty extensive cracking - almost crumbling - in the black plastic baseplate pieces of the sth 14 bindings on both toes and heels. Replacements for these pieces look like they may be a pain to get ahold of. There is a chance that I simply caused this by over tightening - although I am careful to avoid that. I'm also not very hard on bindings when skiing so I highly doubt that is the cause. The only thing I could think of: what if the Loctite 242 that I am using on the machine screws (as reccomended by binding freedom / Jondrums) is somehow weakening the plastic? I apply just a little dab to each screw, but I am sure inevitably some residue ends up on the binding pieces themselves.

    I looked on the page for Loctite 242 and it says Not Recommended For: Use on plastic parts, particularly thermoplastic materials where stress cracking of the plastic could result.

    Has anyone else experienced a similar problem? Does this seem like a possible cause? My dynafit bindings (where I use the same Loctite 242) don't seem to be experiencing any cracking.




  2. #2
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    Yes. This was discussed quite a bit on telemarktips and also here I think. Anyway, yes it does happen with locktite getting on certain types of plastic. Some tele bindings were really prone to it.
    One answer is to use vibra tite instead. Not corrosive for plastic. Not gonna help your exploded binding, but it would prevent it from happening again.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by oldboy View Post
    Yes. This was discussed quite a bit on telemarktips and also here I think. Anyway, yes it does happen with locktite getting on certain types of plastic. Some tele bindings were really prone to it.
    One answer is to use vibra tite instead. Not corrosive for plastic. Not gonna help your exploded binding, but it would prevent it from happening again.
    Thanks. I searched around a bit but must have missed the thread about it. I wish that jondrums would give a warning about this on his website when recommending loctite for this purpose..........

  4. #4
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    Yep I ignored the warnings from 22designs about using loctite and melted a set of hammerhead base plates. Have used vibra tite w success.

  5. #5
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    Sorry to hear this Dromond...
    X2 on what others have said about TT's discussion and Hammerhead/22 Designs.

    One tip I can suggest in retrospect.
    It doesn't take a lot or locktite (or any brand of thread treatment) to get the job done, apply it sparingly, only of the threads that will engage the plate, and let it dry or set up prior to use.

  6. #6
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    Yup done that on some G3 heel thro's sucks man

    you might try plumbers thread tape instead of loctite

  7. #7
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    I had the same problems. On Jon's rec, I went to Loctite 425 (after replacing the solly baseplates) and haven't had a problem. The Dynafit plastic doesn't seem to have this problem.

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    Quote Originally Posted by XXX-er View Post

    you might try plumbers thread tape instead of loctite

    You mean the thread lock tape not teflon tape, right?

    Teflon tape is not thread lock, it is anti seize with a side benefit of sealing very minor leaks.

    I have used blue locktite for years with out problems, you can coat the fastner threads and let dry as stated above or what I do is lightly coat the inside threads of the hole to be screwed.

    Dang that sounds durty.
    watch out for snakes

  9. #9
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    Thanks for posting this; as I am now in the process of installing inserts for the first time.
    -I will pick up the Loctite 425

    Bummer about your baseplate, hopefully it won't be too hard to replace.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by scottyb View Post
    what I do is lightly coat the inside threads of the hole to be screwed.
    ^ this teeniest drip of Loctite 425 goes in the hole.

    Sorry about your binders Josh.
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  11. #11
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    Thanks for the heads up on this as I have the same rig.

  12. #12
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    Thought jondrums was actually going to start carrying Vibra-tite instead of the Loctite?

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by bern43 View Post
    Thought jondrums was actually going to start carrying Vibra-tite instead of the Loctite?
    Hmmm. Everything I've ever bought from him included a bit of vibratite. In any case,as long as you let a tiny dab on the tip of the screw dry,even with regular locktite, I can't see it being much of an issue.

    Norsk.

  14. #14
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    Super sorry about your bindings! That totally sucks! you're the only one I know of that's had this problem.

    Must be the new sollys - I've never seen a pair of sollys with thermoplastic parts. Loctite is fine on a lot of plastics, but definitely not polycarbonate, which for some reason is used extensively on tele gear. I've never seen it used on alpine gear, but maybe now it is. I haven't been able to strike a deal with vibra-tite to carry their stuff yet, but still working on it.

  15. #15
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    Is there a specific chemical in Loctite that causes this? Just thinking that there are other similar products around from other brands, and it would be helpful to know what ingredient to be careful of.

  16. #16
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    ABS plastic is vulnerable IIRC, which could be used for the salomon baseplates??? Not sure what those are made of?!?


    edit: from loctite's FAQ

    Q: Do you recommend using anaerobics on plastics?
    A: Anaerobics are generally not used with most plastics. Anaerobics will stress crack some plastics including many thermoplastics like ABS and polycarbonate. If the product is used for metal-to-metal but in close proximity to plastic, there is the possibility of excess liquid product or vapor affecting the plastic. In the case of compatible plastics like acetals, the anaerobics are simply not the best family of products for effectively locking and/or sealing. Often cyanoacrylates are substituted if they meet the other application parameters.
    ... jfost is really ignorant, he often just needs simple facts laid out for him...

  17. #17
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    Not sure if it was the loctite, but I broke 2 AFD's on my STH 16's while using sollyfits. I know a few other mags had the same problem.

  18. #18
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    Has anyone used threadlock tape? Was looking at this for use with inserts and carrying in a pack / travel.

  19. #19
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    There's a link on that page to request a sample. I'll try it out.

    They say they'll send samples for legitimate industrial applications, so jondrums might have better luck getting some free than me...
    Last edited by ~mikey b; 11-30-2012 at 09:28 AM.
    I didn't believe in reincarnation when I was your age either.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by scottyb View Post
    You mean the thread lock tape not teflon tape, right?

    Teflon tape is not thread lock, it is anti seize with a side benefit of sealing very minor leaks.

    I have used blue locktite for years with out problems, you can coat the fastner threads and let dry as stated above or what I do is lightly coat the inside threads of the hole to be screwed.

    Dang that sounds durty.
    I would try the teflon tape cuz its what I got lying around here, I 1st used teflon tape on the oilpan of my old ford comet

    I think its the solvent carrier in liquid loctite that is eating SOME types of plastic, I would NOT use even a dab cuz if you get just a little bleeding onto the wrong plastic you have fucked yourself

    I would check the spec sheets on both the liquid and whatever tapes you are considering OR has anyone tried e-mailing Loctite?


    I have used a plastic bag for thread lock I think it was on a G3 tele binding, I just did up the fastener with the plastic bag in the threads/cut the excess away and I could feel there was some extra holding going on

  21. #21
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    I have been putting a drop in the screw hole first the wiping any excess off the top prior to installation. Once you get some in the threads its not necessary to add at every swap.
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  22. #22
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    FWIW I was able to purchase vibra-tite from this seller for $8 shipped: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sportsmans-V...item460874688f

  23. #23
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    Same thing happened to some Rossi Axial baseplates of mine. Your pics look exactly like mine did. The plastic would crumble and break with minimal force, almost like it was disintegrating. It defintely wasn't a problem of overtightening. The plastic near the screw holes was super soft and weakened whereas the rest of the plate was normal. I also had no problems with dynafit baseplates. Must be the type of plastic. I was using the Blue 242 Loctite.

    That being said, I wasn't too careful about the loctite. I probably used too much and I wouldn't wait for it to dry.

    If you just put a dab on the tip of the screw and waited for it to dry before installation, you probably wouldn't have a problem.

    I've since been using Vibratite (purchased from Slidewright) without problems.

  24. #24
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    Hey! Good timing!

    I just took some STH16s off some plates and they were shattered just like that. Guess I'll use something else for thread locker next time.

    Anybody know a good place to get some replacement base plastic?
    Besides the comet that killed the dinosaurs nothing has destroyed a species faster than entitled white people.-ajp

  25. #25
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    Best thing for replacements is to ask some local shops or the rep, I'd assume, or call your binding manufacturer direct. They might have heard about this and have a stock to ship out.

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