Climbing shoe that fits like a barracuda?

[schuss]

Hey all,
I'm looking to pick up another pair of normal rock climbing shoes to augment my falling-apart barracuda's and ultra-tight boulder shoes, but haven't had a lot of luck with fit. The Mythos is ok, but I'd prefer better edging. Something like a barracuda or miura vs fit with a flatter stance (Katanas seem to fit different). I've tried a bunch of stuff, and nothing seems to be in the ballpark. Any suggestions? Or people with spare pairs of barracudas in a 40.5?

[auvgeek]

I assume you've tried the miura lace-up and the 5.10 Anasazi lace-up (blanco)?

[schuss]

Miura lace seems to fit differently, but I may try it again. Anasazi is too skinny in the forefoot, I seem to recall (why I can't wear a lot of 5.10's). I have a wide forefoot, giant big toe and skinny heel.

[Skipig25]

I was going to say katanas. damn. maybe try scarpa vapor/ vapor v? I went from 'cudas to solutions and like the switch

[schuss]

I might just go with some slightly larger miura VS as my regular shoe, as they fit so well, but god damn is it hard to stomach 160 for climbing shoes.

[crackboy]

i loved the katanas, but i don't remember them edging very well.

admittedly i am wya out of touch with climbing shoe fit but it used to be that sportivas fit a narrower high arch foot, and 5.10 was more uniform and scarpa was wider.

check out EVOlVE. i have a skinny heel too and they fit great. bonus is super cheap

though for tighter heels you can lace thema bit differently to help a bit.

[Unfrozen Caveman Lawyer]

Boreal Ace (if you can find them....). Edging machine and fits how you describe.

On another note, I recently started rocking TC Pros and LOVE them. Awesome for edging. Although they are a high-top, they have a more aggressive position than something like the Mythos (and are much, much stiffer in the rand).

[schuss]

i loved the katanas, but i don't remember them edging very well.

admittedly i am wya out of touch with climbing shoe fit but it used to be that sportivas fit a narrower high arch foot, and 5.10 was more uniform and scarpa was wider.

check out EVOlVE. i have a skinny heel too and they fit great. bonus is super cheap

though for tighter heels you can lace thema bit differently to help a bit.

I have high arches, high instep and a widish forefoot compared to the heel width. Miura VS's are built for knuckling the toes, so they have a wider toebox that works, with cuda's sharing the same old la sport design. Katanas and other newer shoes just seem to have gone slightly more towards 5.10 fit, though I'll have to try the TC pros.

UCL,
If you're in the bay area, let me know if you ever want to climb. I'm a noob to outdoors, but I have a rope, draws and some knowledge.

[auvgeek]

Glad to hear the TC Pros are excellent. I'm on my last pair of stockpiled pink Anasazis so it's time for something new. TC Pro definitely caught my eye, as I like me some offwidth too.

[lynchdogger]

Boreal Ace (if you can find them....). Edging machine and fits how you describe.

On another note, I recently started rocking TC Pros and LOVE them. Awesome for edging. Although they are a high-top, they have a more aggressive position than something like the Mythos (and are much, much stiffer in the rand).

x2 for the TC Pros. Excellent shoes.

[Boglins]

I owned a pair of Barracudas that were resoled a few times. Now have TC Pros on their second resole. I have a narrow heel, wide toes, and a big gap between my big toe and second toe. The Barracuda was very similar to the Katana, but the TC Pro is a better shoe. Everything I liked about the Barracuda the TC Pro does better. Edging and crack climbing while still just aggressive enough to toe in on overhanging stuff. If you get a pair of TCs, unlace them pretty loose all the way to the toe, put your foot in, and then start lightly snugging them up to try to make your forefoot more comfortable. It's too bad they are like the most expensive shoe ever.

[sfotex]

My go to comfy show that climbs well is the 5.10 Galileo, edges well, I warm up in them at the crag to save my feet for my agro shoes...

I have a pair of TC pros, but I think they're too clunky - and the sole if too stiff - for thin cracks or sensitive stuff.

[STLharry]

Evolv Pontas (or Pontas II more recently) is an option. It's not quite a christmas slipper (see: Evolv Defy or La Sportiva Mythos) but its not aggressive like the Miura velcro.

Another option is (like what was said before) the Miura lace-up. I'm not sure if you've tried those on but they are build differently than the velcro version.

[StopMakingSense]

Evolv Pontas (or Pontas II more recently) is an option. It's not quite a christmas slipper (see: Evolv Defy or La Sportiva Mythos) but its not aggressive like the Miura velcro.

Another option is (like what was said before) the Miura lace-up. I'm not sure if you've tried those on but they are build differently than the velcro version.

Yep, I'm not even sure why they actually call them the same shoe because they aren't.

[schuss]

Ok, just tried on a ton and thought I'd share my notes in case anyone was curious on fit. Going to try to hunt down a pair of miura vs in a 42 I think. They're just my exact footshape, and the aggressiveness doesn't bother me too much due to my high arches.

Galileo - Nice shoe, just a little short. Heel pocket a bit big
Katana - The weird liner wrap puts my foot in the wrong position because of my high instep. Otherwise a nice shoe
Shaman - Totally wrong foot shape.
Scarpa Force - Decent fit, actually might end up with this if I go cheap. Heel pocket is bigger than I'd like though.
Dragon - Rad shoe, but to get a big enough forefoot, I had to size the heel up too much.

Sadly there weren't many other types to try.

[adrenalated]

If you liked the Scarpa Force but felt the heel was too loose, definitely try on a pair of Vapor Lace if you can. Katana Lace will also fit your high instep better than the velcro Katana.

[schuss]

If you liked the Scarpa Force but felt the heel was too loose, definitely try on a pair of Vapor Lace if you can. Katana Lace will also fit your high instep better than the velcro Katana.

Tried both. The retarded stretchy part pushed on my foot in a way that made it not as nice a fit. The heel isn't as tight as the Miura either. Understand that my weirdo foot is a 25 in ski boot terms from the midfoot back, but a 27-27.5 in the forefoot/toe area. This has some pluses in that toe knuckling shoes are just toe curved shoes for me, but very hard to fit.

[StopMakingSense]

I use the lace Katana when I'm serious... I'm a 10 in an Adidas Samba but fit a 7 Katana, the shoe kills it if you can fit it. Also agreed on the above, try the lace Katana, totally different.