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Thread: outdoor sauna plans?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
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    81

    outdoor sauna plans?

    got some extra timbers of various sizes kicking around, got a extra small wood stove, cedar siding, insulation and roofing leftover after building my new place... thinking about building an outdoor sauna this fall once work slows up.

    anyone have any efficient plans, good layouts etc?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
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    you see a tie dye disc in there?
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    no real plans but experience from when I was a kid...

    my grandfather lived up in northern mn, use to go up in the 70's as a kid before he passed away. My dad and him build a cabin off the grid in the 60's, eventually they put in power but it was outhouse for facilitys and sauna to clean up/shower if you can call it that.

    All walls were planked wood as well as two levels of benches. Planks were in addition to the outer frame and walls for better insulation. Stove was a 55 gal drum on side. The key was the top rack that held a half barrel full of water (which was my job to haul up from lake everyday) and lots of rocks to create large surface heating area. Build up the fire an hour or two before heading in and water the walls and stones for getting steam. Floor was concrete with a drain out to the forest but had slatted wood flooring.

    I still want to build one the same way some day....

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
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    Near Perimetr.
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    Building a decent sauna is easy. Building a good one is easier,if you know what to do...

    Basically you dont need anything else but good frame,ventilation (replacement & exhaust), good placement of the stove and foremost, to get the seats at proper height and position considering the the vents/door/stove.

    All the other small details (heating water,layout, water runout, dressing room,window etc) can easily feel irrelevant but will be quite crucial to the experience,so they should not be looked upon,ever.

    How much materiel (and what) do you have? Where are you going to build it? Any aesthetic considerations?

    I could dig up some layouts and beta if you are serious and are planning to build a Good Sauna.
    If you are planning to build some heated shack...well...ask the swedes then.

    The floggings will continue until morale improves.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
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    81
    thanks for the reply. would like to build a good one thinking off the side of my new place pictured here probably where the bbq is but a bit further out, i have lots of room to play with.

    as for material i have lots of the rough cut red cedar 1x6, i have loads of timbers (6x6, 6x8, 3x6, 4x6, and 4- 6x10 some are spruce some are hemlock.

    bunch of dimensional lumber and will purchase whatever else is required. also i can get red cedar for buck a board foot, yellow for buck fifty

    i have some leftover sheets of the galvalume roofing so i would like it to match the house basically.

    going to build it on the crush that is laid down, could do concrete for it or just block it up.

    i have a hot and cold hydrant plumbed to the side of the house for a shower setup...





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  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeffyg View Post
    thanks for the reply. would like to build a good one thinking off the side of my new place pictured here probably where the bbq is but a bit further out, i have lots of room to play with.

    as for material i have lots of the rough cut red cedar 1x6, i have loads of timbers (6x6, 6x8, 3x6, 4x6, and 4- 6x10 some are spruce some are hemlock.

    Beautiful looking place and I think you are sorted materiel wise!

    In short, build something close to this :









    Sauna,with dressing room and small veranda.Thats it.



    For foundation you can do concrete pillar or slab.

    Slab takes more concrete and it is trickier to do as you have to take ground freezing to consideration,take care of ventilation etc. Properly done is good in that sense that you can practically build the timber frame on top of that, have the water runouts built into the slab and just
    cover the slab with removable wood panels.

    Pilar is much easier,cheaper,quicker and safer in the long run. 6 or 8 point bedding,
    with the timber frame on top of that. The frame is a bit trickier to put up in the initial part,but the pillar construction allows you adequate ventilation for the "basement".
    A wooden floor is cheap,cosy and easily built,and with good design the water runs out quickly and easily preventing rot in the long run.


    Here is a good reference for building the timber frame : Frame



    If you build the sauna with the timber,you have the option to leave the innards on timber finish or use paneling of your choice. Traditionally the saunas have been left with a timber finish if the lumber have been aspen or birch and paneled if the trees have contained resins.

    The ventilation of the sauna is the most crucial part. The stove needs well designed airflow and to heat the sauna evenly. With shitty design you can have a really miserable experience. Sauna does not heat properly,it is drafty and you feel like you are asphyxiating...

    Basically it is like this:



    The thing is to have the incoming airdraft behind the stove,at the same level or a bit higher (prefered). The "exhaust" air is in that pic a bit poorly placed.
    The best place would be under the seats at height of approx.1m.
    This makes sure that you have a good flow of the hot air that is oxygen rich.
    Misplace the vents and you fuck up your sauna.




    Other thing is to place the seats on correct height. Waaaaay to often you find saunas
    that has the seats practically on the floor, when you are going to freeze your ass of.
    A good sauna height is about 2-2.5m,depending on the size of the stove.The top seats height should be about 100-120cm from the roof.
    After you have done the final design on the sauna itself,sit down,grab a beer and study how to make good seats for that space. Design and functionality is crucial for the experience.



    The sauna frame itself does not need insulation,especially if you construct it well.
    You can use a bit linen insulation between the timbers if you fancy that,but with dry timber that it normally not necessary. In the inner roof some peeps want to use a bit
    of insulation, I am a bit torn on that.. You have to do it well not to rot your stuff and the benefits are not that huge.

    Classic construction is for the inner roof is:
    1. paneling
    2. 20-30mm breathing space
    3. 2x4" frame with cardboard paper on the top
    4. wood chip/sawdust insulation (20-30cm)


    Hope that helps you.
    Properly done saunas are awesome places to relax and chill out. Only the japanese
    onsens come close in the awesomeness!



    I should have some book of traditional saunas somewhere,cant find it now...
    And I need to go and start to heat up my sauna now as well.. I could take
    couple of shots of it as well..

    The floggings will continue until morale improves.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Posts
    81
    awesome, thanks for the info there ill keep you posted but this is in the ballpark of what i am looking for

    thanks again

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Posts
    810
    Built this one up at the ski cabin a couple of years ago. Small, simple. Ceader siding, 2x4 frame, metal roof, insulated. Stone floor with drain in the middle. Works great!


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