TR: Gulmarg India

**Little_ey** · 01-29-2010, 01:31 PM

There have already been a couple of trip reports from Kashmir, but I thought I'd add my own experience which, unlike the other ones, did not feature epic snow conditions.

My dad and I left for India the day that terrorists decided to light up downtown Srinagar. Thinking we might have to make some sort of contingency plan in case we couldn't go up north, we were relieved when everyone was telling us that it would be fine, these things happen (

) and that it'd be great. Well... except that Kashmir hadn't had any new snow for two weeks.

We spent 3 days in Mumbai, which if you ever get the chance to go... do. Only, when we got there, after a 3 hour delay in Frankfurt, we were sans skis. Well as they say... surrender yourself you India. Thus, they came the day before we catch our Kingfisher flight up north to Srinagar (if you're flying domestically in India, screw AirIndia and fly Kingfisher. Really.)

Flying into Srinagar is a trip. It's an active airforce base but not like it is in Frankfurt or Bishkek, this is an airforce base that does have a real threat and not that far away. So security is pretty tight. However, being a woman in an area with few women travelers and different sex airport screenings means fast line for me, slow line for dad.

But let's get to the skiing. MountainTraks out of the UK set us up with John Falkiner and Paulo Tassi as guides. PRETTY AWESOME.

But we were still pretty low on snow.

Not to worry though, John and Paulo would find us something... but we were going to be careful. No new snow in Gulmarg for 2 weeks means that any old tracks were like cement and the Avy danger was HUGE. CAIC black, HUGE. In fact, the day before we arrive, their group set down an avalanche that lost one ski and blew one guy's knee.

Now, Gulmarg is HUGE. Image Blue Sky Basin laid out five to six times over. And all the while you're at or nearlyl at 14,000 feat with Nanga Parbat not so far off in the distance (26,000+ft).

The world's highest gondola takes you up to endless hikeable and skinable terrain and all you can think of is, "I'm going to go there, then I'm going to go there. Ooo! and what about over there!" Unfortunately with crappy snow, you get limited, but even THEN you still have epic fun.

Eat when you can though, because often the runs are 2000-5000 vertical and in some cases 22km long with a 2km hike out.

[IMG]http://photos-g.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs136.snc3
/18348_263739938117_628988117_3197227_5470156_n.jpg[/IMG]

If you get too tired and have a down day, take a day with Papi to search for leopards

Or watch the locals and the Indian army hike the small local hill in the village

Or hang with the locals themselves

Or run into some American pro-skiers

But mostly, even with challenging snow, Gulmarg is the most beautiful place and made for an epically wonderful adventure.

**pepperdawg** · 01-29-2010, 01:45 PM

Nice Stoke!!!!

**Man Jerk** · 01-29-2010, 01:51 PM

Nice TR!

My wife has an uncle who lives in Mumbai. We have had conversations about getting out there sometime.

**MakersTeleMark** · 01-29-2010, 01:52 PM

Full of win.

**nogophers** · 01-29-2010, 01:57 PM

Your dad is sooo cool. Sure beats going to Keystone in the family station wagon!

Great pics. Thanks for sharing.

**slicknik** · 01-29-2010, 02:12 PM

What an amazing adventure and opportunity! Thanks for sharing

**Tips^Up** · 01-29-2010, 03:37 PM

damn girl! the "I tele <3land" pic is classic.

**boltonoutlaw** · 01-29-2010, 03:42 PM

Great report - Pray for snow!

**khyber.pass** · 01-29-2010, 03:53 PM

Heh, beauty TR.

**406** · 01-29-2010, 06:04 PM

very nice.

**pointedem** · 01-29-2010, 06:10 PM

thx for sharing cool stuff

**BCSNOWBUM** · 01-29-2010, 06:22 PM

how much did this trip cost you once you were in India ??? I would love to spend 6 months backpacking over there and do a Little snowboarding .

**Little_ey** · 01-29-2010, 10:14 PM

as for the costs, if you don't go with an organized thing, it can be pretty inexpensive. we had Mountain Traks organize the Kashmir logistics and with 2 guides, 7 hotel nights (if you're back backing cut MAJOR costs here), full food, gondola tickets, taxis, and domestic flights I think it came to less than $3500 for two people for a week. The Mumbai and Delhi stuff was on our own.

The most expensive thing, surprisingly, was all the tipping that you do. But seeing as we come from such an affluent country, I have no reserves about tipping these wonderful people

**bobbuilds** · 01-29-2010, 10:21 PM

nice TR going to loveland tomorrow, not India though...

**boltonoutlaw** · 01-30-2010, 01:34 PM

Originally Posted by Little_ey

...all the tipping that you do. But seeing as we come from such an affluent country, I have no reserves about tipping these wonderful people

Glad to hear you say that. The men working in the hotels at Gulmarg are paid USD$90, and get 3 days off, for working the entire winter season (3 months).

**teamdirt** · 01-30-2010, 02:19 PM

Nice- TR. I'm leaving for India in a couple days. Just got word it snowed 50cm and all that faceted snow is now spitting out class 4 and 5 avalanches. Sounds like we will be walking on egg shells.

**boltonoutlaw** · 01-30-2010, 03:31 PM

Originally Posted by teamdirt

...Just got word it snowed 50cm and all that faceted snow is now spitting out class 4 and 5 avalanches. Sounds like we will be walking on egg shells.

This relevant article was just posted two days ago:

An avalanche of concern - Article by Sam Lozier.

**teamdirt** · 01-30-2010, 03:56 PM

Originally Posted by boltonoutlaw

This relevant article was just posted two days ago:

An avalanche of concern - Article by Sam Lozier.

reminds me of Whistler last season. At this point in the season the only good news is going to be no news of snow in the forecast. I guess the season plays out here by mid March so not much time for correction to occur in the snowpack.

**hop** · 01-30-2010, 04:01 PM

So that's what the bottom of the Highland Park looks like. We had to walk down a snow tunnel to get in the front door.

**Mike Pow** · 01-30-2010, 11:51 PM

Great read, thanks

**andrewmc** · 01-31-2010, 05:34 PM

HI,

Has much snow arrived in the last 5 days? with regards to money, how much in dollars do you think you need a day? whats good form with the tipping, there's meant to be another front moving in this week, I've read about the danger of the snow pack, is it likely to get better, worse of remain about the same?

Cheers

**CarveMan** · 02-01-2010, 03:22 AM

Careful dudes - Shaggy's bowl is named in the memory of one of my good mates who died there.

**boltonoutlaw** · 02-01-2010, 11:01 AM

Originally Posted by CarveMan

Careful dudes - Shaggy's bowl is named in the memory of one of my good mates who died there.

CarveMan: With all respects, RIP.
Shaggy's Face, Sheenmal Bowl, Gulmarg:

More about SHAUN KRATZER (1976-2007)

Photo from thread: [ame="http://www.tetongravity.com/forums/showthread.php?t=155571"]TR: GULMARG '08/09 - 23 MARCH: 1 GONDOLA, 1 DAY, 2 RIDERS[/ame]

**digitaltouch8** · 02-02-2010, 10:28 AM

Off to Gulmarg on Saturday 6th Feb. for one week. Looks like conditions are improving quickly, although avalanche danger very high atm. Forecast for loads more pow pow over weekend and into early next week. I just hope it stops for me to see the mountain on Monday.

We had planned to go in Jan. but delayed our trip due to very poor snow conditions in January.

Graeme (scottish boarder, Gulmarg virgin)

**andrewmc** · 02-02-2010, 04:59 PM

Off to Gulmarg courtesy of those thieving C***s at BA on Friday for 25 days. You're not going for one week from the UK are u? Thats a long way to go IMO. Looks like there'll be plenty of fresh snow, might not be able to ski, but it will be nice to look at

Andrew (SE London, Gulmarg virgin)