Epoxy vs. Gorilla Glue

[crispy4505]

Ok, i did some searching and didnt find anything conclusive for what im fixing.
I have a three inch long chunk taken out of the top sheet on my line blends, exposing the wood core. should i fill it with epoxy or gorilla glue? in my research i heard that gorilla glue expands. My chunk is more of a flesh wound than a hole, very shallow. My only concern is sealing up the hole so no moisture gets in the wood.

tried to post pics but i had my resolution set too high and dont feel like taking more pics.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[AK]

and you can eat it if you ever get stuck in a tree-well and run out of food!

[bfree]

Pictures are easily downsized on any of the major photo hosting websites.

I would do epoxy.

[ACHTUNG]

another vote for Epoxy

[tsproul]

I have a three inch long chunk taken out of the top sheet on my line blends, exposing the wood core. should i fill it with epoxy or gorilla glue?

EPOXY.

Yeah, gorilla glue (polyurethane glues) expands when it cures. It expands because part of the curing process produces a gas.

If the fix requires you to fill a gap, use epoxy. If the fix requires you to adhere 2 parts together with no gap, use either. But I'd still use epoxy over gorilla glue.

Epoxy isn't just epoxy. Use an epoxy that sets up and is flexible once cured. Some epoxies set up and cure so they are rock hard and others maintain a lot of flexibility or somewhere in between.

[otto parts]

Highly recommend the 3M dp420 or 460.
Slow set and 24 hr cure, super durable and not brittle.
Grainger carries it.

[1wsguy]

EPOXY EPOXY!!

I haven't found much use for Gorilla Glue. It's expansion and bubbling make it useless for applications that require a watertight seal.

[K man]

I recommend West Systems marine epoxy. It takes 72 hrs to cure but is very flexible and comes in a kit with single use sleeves with hardener in one and resin in the other and a powdered silicon filler material.
Get it at West Marine stores or I've found it in other marine places.

[crispy4505]

Thank you for all the input. to better describe the top sheet damage, think of needing some the the new skin band aid crap for three inch cut. dont have to fill anything, just need to keep water out.

[fatman]

If your just trying to keep moisture out just use some silicone caulk. It seals and remains flexible.

[XXX-er]

If your just trying to keep moisture out just use some silicone caulk. It seals and remains flexible.

yer kidding right? The reason there is a big fucking hole in the ski is abrasion ... silicone has no abraision resistance

with epoxy you can use saran wrap to "form' how the skin of the epoxy dries or if you want to squeeze out excess ... a poor mans vacum bagging

[1wsguy]

If your just trying to keep moisture out just use some silicone caulk. It seals and remains flexible.

.....and I would guess,....wouldn't stay.

[RootSkier]

I haven't found much use for Gorilla Glue.

Gorilla glue is the best shit on earth for some applications. But none of them have anything to do with ski repair.

If you were laminating wood together for the core of a ski...Gorilla Glue would be my first choice, though.

[crispy4505]

.....and I would guess,....wouldn't stay.

Agreed, doesnt seem strong enough

[erosenberg]

[QUOTE=RootSkier;2291621]Gorilla glue is the best shit on earth for some applications. But none of them have anything to do with ski repair.

i use gorilla glue to seal the freshly drilled holes in a binding mount.

[skiwithcharlie]

Gorilla glue is the best shit on earth for some applications. But none of them have anything to do with ski repair.

i use gorilla glue to seal the freshly drilled holes in a binding mount.

And that is not one of them unless your holes are stripped or something!

[LightRanger]

Another vote for epoxy. 24 hour works fine. I've used it numerous times with no ill effects.

[XXX-er]

Gorilla glue is the best shit on earth for some applications. But none of them have anything to do with ski repair.

If you were laminating wood together for the core of a ski...Gorilla Glue would be my first choice, though.

a BIG crack in a concrete foundation ,I had a 5' crack in my basemnt that I couldnt fix with hydralic cement and digging down to the drain tile .

I wished I had called this guy to begin with ... a couple of hours and 300$ no digging no water no problem

to watch polyureathane glue go after water in a big way is really something

http://www.crackmasterconcrete.com/

[wizard604]

I used a flexible marine epoxy for a top sheet repair that had a 1/2" gouge down to the core. I had my doubts on how well it would hold up, but it's held up great. No cracking or separation, despite pounding moguls on them.

[crispy4505]

I went with 24 hour epoxy, local ski shop manager hooked me up for free. Im letting it cure till tonight so i can smooth it out with some sand paper. Im guessing i can just use fine or super fine grit sand paper. It doesnt require anything special right?

[XXX-er]

whatever works to smooth it out

too late now but when you put epoxy on you can cover it with saran and it will keep the shape you give it or if thats what you want squeeze out excess ,pull off the saran and the finish will look smooth & shinny

[RootSkier]

Or packing tape.

[XXX-er]

Or packing tape.

sure

I just used slow set to fix my thule box ,hold togetehr cracks with ductape of a sticker on the outside patch from the inside with epoxy and instead of fibreglass matt ... used dryer sheets

[Ryan Pringnitz]

Gorilla Glue expands quite a bit. I used it to glue down some parts on my boat, and it expanded a bit and I had to take a razor and cut the excess foam off.

[XXX-er]

You are supposed to wet areas to help PU glue cure ,when I used it to fill some old holes in a ski I spit in the holes ,put gorrila glue into the holes and some pieces of dowel .BUT the dowel was NOT a friction fit ,in the morning the glue and bubbled/expanded so much it popped the dowel compleetly out of the holes and the pieces were lying on the top sheet

you should have seen buddy inject PU into my basement wall , he had a big double barreled caulking gun that he used to injected glue into the foundation

areas 12 " from the crack which looked like solid concrete were actualy porous ,water pushed thru followed by the expanding PU ....the fix was 100%