IPOS: Black Mountain

Watch TGR's full film In Pursuit of Soul on TGRtv now

Thankfully, us weak-tempered west coast skiers don’t have to suffer too long, because the sun has finally crested over the nearby ridgeline, bathing us in its glorious warmth. “Ski in the Sun” is a saying you’ll see and hear all over Black Mountain. The mountain's trails are all south-facing, meaning that sunny days on this mountain are hard to beat—especially when it’s a chilly Northeast winter day. Based on the bluebird conditions we already have, we can tell that this afternoon will be a perfect New England spring day.

Snowcats zig-zag past us, finishing up their work for the morning. Two fluffy and curious horses watch us inquisitively from their fenced area near the lodge. Meanwhile, lifties and ski patrollers are busy getting the lifts running. Someone switches on the music, which sends upbeat rock music blasting into speakers set up at the base. Suddenly, classic rock fills the base area, and Aerosmith passionately belts "Walk This Way." When I glance back at the parking lot, I see that the empty space is now filled with rows and rows of cars. Hoards of children are sprinting up the hill with skis awkwardly balancing in their arms ready to topple out like a Jenga tower tipping over. They eagerly make their way up to the lifts in hopes of scoring the first chair of the day. Aside from infrastructure upgrades over the years, this has been Black Mountain’s morning ritual since 1935—when the resort first opened.

What's a New England ski area without a bright red chairlift? | Katie Lozancich photo.

Black Mountain’s story starts in 1934, when the Civilian Conservation Corps cut some of the first ski trails on the mountain. Those early ski trails make it one of the oldest ski resorts in New Hampshire. With 84 years of operation under its belt, the resort is teeming with ski history and industry firsts. It’s home to some proud firsts like the first overhead cable lift in the country and one of the first snowmaking systems in New England. The best place to take in all this history is the Lostbo Pub, which has all kinds of historic images up on the walls. While a lot has changed since those old black and white photos have been taken, one thing remains the same about Black Mountain: Its commitment to families. The small resort prides itself on its accessibility, evident today in its pricing structure. Kids five and under ski free, making it a no-brainer choice for families looking to get acclimated to the slopes. And with over 140 acres, 5 lifts, and 45 trails, it’s plenty for little ones to be entertained with all day.

Back outside, we grab our skis and head to the lifts. Black Mountain still has those iconic red two-seater chairs. They exude that homey New England charm, and they might even connect you with the love of your life. Every year the resort hosts a speed dating event on their two-seaters, and while it’s not as convenient as Tinder, the stars might align so that you find THE ONE. Memorable first dates aside, we move through the non-existent lift line and cruise up the mountain. The second we step off the Summit Chair, we’re rewarded with a jaw-dropping view of Mount Washington—the highest peak in the Northeast and home or the best backcountry skiing and mountaineering you can find east of the Mississippi. With Mt. Washington looming right in its backyard, Black Mountain has embraced the bigger industry movement for foot-powered skiing. Uphill travel is now allowed on its slopes, and its 1,100 feet of vertical drop make it an easy skin up and a great place to train for bigger objectives nearby. Pre-covid, the resort even hosted ski mountaineering races in tandem with the Ski the Whites crew, which is a legendary local backcountry skiing and splitboard shop. Today I spotted a handful of skiers touring up the resort’s slopes and given the beautiful weather it’s not a bad way to spend a Saturday afternoon.

Uphill access isn't just allowed, it's encouraged. | Katie Lozancich photo.

After soaking in the view, I meet up with a local shredder named Bentley who skis at Black Mountain on the regular. The six-year-old might not have his front teeth yet but sure has figured out his priorities in life: going as fast as he can on two skis. On the ski down the mountain, he’s leading the charge, choosing to be in full tuck mode as much as possible. We rip through the glades in hot pursuit of finding the perfect rollers to jump off. As we ski we pass hoards of other giggling children. Some are with their family, but the majority of the kids are on their own exploring the mountain to their heart’s desire. That’s the beauty of a small resort like this: you can let your kids roam free and know that eventually, they’ll make their way back down to the base. It all funnels to the same spot, so it’s easy to keep track of little ones. When I catch Bentley back at the Summit Lift he informs me that his skis were made custom by his dad, and proudly shows me the top sheets. While they’re not the sole source of his speed, it’s true that when you look you look good you feel good, so they must help. After a few more laps with Bentley, we part ways. I have to drop a few layers back at the car given that the temperature has dramatically changed from being frigid to the perfect spring skiing weather. On my way down I see that the parking lot has undergone a complete metamorphosis.

The horizon is dominated by New England's highest peak: Mt. Washington. | Katie Lozancich photo.

Lawn chairs are spread out in front of cars and in the snow. Families and guests are in Hawaiian shirts and t-shirts, eating lunch from coolers propped up next to them. Packed sandwiches are spread across camping tables with all kinds of snacks. It’s a scene that feels plucked straight from the beach, except everyone is wearing Gore Tex and ski boots. Parents lounge lazily in the sun as their kids sprint back to the chairlift. You wouldn’t see this kind of set up at some of the bigger glitzier resorts. Instead it would be rows of luxury condominiums, patios with heaters and waiters buzzing around with $15 cocktails, or high end restaurants serving $50 entrees. Instead, here it’s all about homemade PB&Js and La Croix, and Black Mountain is proud of that difference. This resort doesn’t aspire to have all those extra bells and whistles because it knows what makes it special: the people. These families—particularly the children—are the lifeblood of this place, and that won’t change anytime soon. 

Learn more about Black Mountain

Watch TGR's full film In Pursuit of Soul on TGRtv now