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  1. #1
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    P18 Wide Brakes Tutorial (with pictures!)

    No you can't buy wide brakes for P18's. However, you can make them. If you follow these instructions and kill your bindings or yourself... don't blame me... you're the dumbass with lousy shop skills.

    Now, here's how:

    What you'll need:

    Look P18's or Rossi FKS 185's; a Posi-drive screw driver; a large bladed flat screw driver; an old ski pole, bike seat, or pipe; a metric ruler; and a vise.

    I'm using a set of nearly new Rossi FKS 185's that I bought off of e-bay. Some sucker cut the brakes off because he didn't know the bendy trick. Fortunately, I had an extra pair of brakes laying around.

    First step is to remove the semi-circle piece on the top of the bindings behind the brake pad. Shown here:


    Second step is to turn the binding over and use your screw driver to bend the small metal tab at the front of the binding up and out of the way. Don't go over board here because you'll need to bend it back when everything gets put back together.


    Once that is done, insert the blade of the screw driver beneath the metal plate at the back of the binding. Do not torque it upwards as that will break a small plastic tab that is important to holding the binding heel together. Simply slide the screw driver towards the front of the binding and the metal plate should pop off.


    With the metal plate off, you can begin taking apart the binding.
    Last edited by slim; 02-06-2005 at 02:36 PM.

  2. #2
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    Remove the brake spring, the brake, and finally take apart the turntable assembly.


    Now you can begin bending. Place the brake into your vise and using your ski pole bend the brake straight.




    Once both arms of the brake are straight measure the new width you want for your brakes. I'm bending here for ~100mm, so I measure from the center line of the brake 45mm to each side and mark with a paint pen.


    The reason you measure 5mm short of your ultimate width is due to the radius of the bend which is approximately 5mm. Shown here:
    Last edited by slim; 02-08-2005 at 03:35 PM.

  3. #3
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    Reassemble the turntable and insert your new wide brake.


    Place the spring into the bottom of the heel assembly with the looped end up near the brake pad. Pushing the two open ends of the spring and hooking them into the front of the turntable will make reassembly a little easier. Another trick is to use a vise and squish the spring to make it easier to work with (be careful doing this as a loaded spring will mess you up if it ejects from the vise).


    Now it gets hard. You need to slide the metal plate back onto the heel. Before doing this make sure it's basically flat and not all torqued out-of-shape from when you removed it. There are four points of contact. One at the back of the binding, two in the middle, and one at the front (the metal tab you bent at the start of the process). All these must be aligned for it to reassemble properly. Take your time doing this. Don't hurt yourself and don't destroy your bindings.


    Once you get the metal plate to slide back on, bend the metal tab back into place and make sure the open ends of the brake spring are seated in the proper position. Replace the semi-circle piece and screw the heel screws back in. You're done.


    EDIT: I now use the large flathead screw driver method to put the springs back in place. Described by crash below. Much, much, much easier.
    Last edited by slim; 12-07-2010 at 10:54 PM.

  4. #4
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    I've found that it is easier to install the spring once the binding is back together. If you have the binding secure on something, you can take a large flat head screwdriver or something similar and sort of snap it into place.

  5. #5
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    Good job, sir. I would point out that reassembly is easier having one person hold the metal plate against the plastic part of the binding while a second person uses a flathead screwdriver to engage the tabs.

  6. #6
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    Excelent tech talk thread!

  7. #7
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    posting in legendary thread

  8. #8
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    Thumbs up

    Slim, this is beyond the call of duty. Thanks, dudeman.

    edit: kegerator!
    Last edited by SkiJunky05; 02-06-2005 at 10:38 AM.

  9. #9
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    Pure sickness! You should send that to sometype of techrep at Look. You dudes must really lover those binders. Has anyone tried going to a metal fab shop (or your garage) and doing a little cut/extend/tack weld option?

  10. #10
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    Bendy! Bendy! Woo hoo!

    Basom and I preformed the same procedure. Our analysis was that squishing the spring in a vise before re assembly was a necessity to get 'er in there. helps to have a friend too.
    Craig Kelly is my co-pilot.

    Buy Your Lift Tickets in Advance and Save

  11. #11
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    that is a sick vise, btw.
    Craig Kelly is my co-pilot.

    Buy Your Lift Tickets in Advance and Save

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by crashnburn'd
    I've found that it is easier to install the spring once the binding is back together. If you have the binding secure on something, you can take a large flat head screwdriver or something similar and sort of snap it into place.
    Ditto, found it easier to put the spring in at the very end. Its a tight fit but with some persuasion it will go.

  13. #13
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    That's a sweet tutorial but I just yanked them out with my hands
    I.Q.=36

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by BradyCU
    That's a sweet tutorial but I just yanked them out with my hands
    I realized I wasn't that rad or racing and bought bindings with wide brakes.
    The trumpet scatters its awful sound Over the graves of all lands Summoning all before the throne

    Death and mankind shall be stunned When Nature arises To give account before the Judge

  15. #15
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    Quite possibly the best tech talk thread I've ever read. Now I have no excuse for not doing this myself.
    You see, in this world there's two kinds of people, my friend: Those with loaded guns and those who dig. You dig.

  16. #16
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    You have achieved the pinnacle of the essence of Tech Talk.

    There is none higher.
    "Have fun, get a flyrod, and give the worm dunkers the finger when you start double hauling." ~Lumpy

  17. #17
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    One more tip on this from doing it a week ago. When you are putting the metal plate back on the bottom have a buddy hold the thing together and then slide a small screwdriver through the screw holes (which will not be quite lined up at this point). Push the screwdriver one direction and it will push the metal and the base plate right back together. Doing it this way I found I never even had to bend the metal tabs. Sorry no pics to make this make more sense. But too busy, need to work so can ski tomm, cuz it is a blizzard in the Salt Lake valley and it was already super deep up there this morning
    "I dont hike.... my legs are too heavy"

  18. #18
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    All Ya'll posting shit about needing 18 DIN binders better post some pics of 50 footers... pussies.
    The trumpet scatters its awful sound Over the graves of all lands Summoning all before the throne

    Death and mankind shall be stunned When Nature arises To give account before the Judge

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Greydon Clark
    All Ya'll posting shit about needing 18 DIN binders better post some pics of 50 footers... pussies.
    heh. no...shit...what does a guy named "slim" need DIN 18'ers for?
    LOOK HOW RAD I AM!

  20. #20
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    Presumably everything is identical for older, more modest-DIN Look binders, one pair of which I happen to have sitting around.

    How wide could you go on these? Would they be able to straddle a pair of, say, Spats?

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Big E
    Presumably everything is identical for older, more modest-DIN Look binders, one pair of which I happen to have sitting around.

    How wide could you go on these? Would they be able to straddle a pair of, say, Spats?
    I'm guessing no. If it doesn't work, I plan on having a buddy do a quick weld on extension.

    eh- after looking at the pics of slim's brakes again, it looks like it might be possible. it's so crazy it might just work.

  22. #22
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  23. #23
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    You can definetly bend for Spatulas, you won't have a ton of brake left sticking down, but you'll have enough.

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by spray
    heh. no...shit...what does a guy named "slim" need DIN 18'ers for?
    Because all the cool kids are getting ACL surgery these days.

  25. #25
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    Just wanted to give another thank you. I created wide brakes for my Rossi turntables last night.

    I hadn't worked with these bindings before, so it was fun to get to know them at such a personal level. I took them out for drinks afterwards.

    I followed Slim's instructions, but left the spring till the end. I used Professors tip to slide the metal plate into place. It took a little rebending of the plate, but nothing too bad. Before I put the final semi-circle on, i inserted the spring, pushing with a large flat head. Just make sure it gets all the way in there. Then I put the binding on the edge of a counter, pushed the brake down out of the way, and screwed in the top plastic semi circle.

    I now have brakes that would fit over a 140mm base, and it leaves the brake arm (the part sticking into the snow) about 3 inches long from the 90 degree bend. I guess since they're so wide, it gives me reason to purchase some Prophets or sumfin.

    Thanks for everyone who contributed to this thread. You all had a hand in the certain destruction of my knees

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