Dipstik's complete photo guide to tuning ski's

[cptncha0s]

I use a swix xactor as my edge guide, ajustable bevel, side wall remove setting you need to use a panzar file for side wall it just clogs up regular files.

[Mex]

Bump, It's about that time to start tuning the gear. If only I would have seen this thread last year
Thanks for the info Dipstik

[jerr]

I like all the added bits as well. It helps form the biiiiiig picture.

[dipstik]

damn, I need to update this! I've learned a lot since I first made this, and a few of my opinions have changed a little, but not to worry, its all still good. Hopefully I'll find the time to get some new pics up and add some new info by the time ski season rolls around.

Thanks for all the compliments everyone, glad I could help.

[Pow4Brains]

schweat bump! thanks doodz

[upallnight]

i think dipstik did a pretty good job and a nice service by posting this. i have some alternate methods/beliefs about tuning, so i've been thinking of posting a tuning "TR" of sorts. unfortunately, it will have to wait as all my skis have already received their summer tune.

in the meantime, i posted some recommendations for gear in this thread, and here is a sample restoration projectf or what can be done in resurrecting skis that are pretty far gone.

[chaka]

Dipstik. Thank you sir! I have converted your post to a handy PDF so I have an easy reference to follow.

[Toadman]

Was directed to this thread from another website. Definitely has been helpful in getting back into tuning and waxing my own skis again.

[TrailRider]

Did some work last night using this thread as a guide. Many thanks.

[seanpistol]

this is good.

[skiitsbetter]

What do you guys think of edge bevel? Also I use a metal scraper even for wax, it just makes sure that my bases stay flat as excess wax doesn't build up from previous waxings. Is this ok?, I know that the metal scraper can destroy bases, but can it destroy edges? When I scrape, usually I can have both sides of the metal scraper on each edge. I find that when I use a plastic scraper (well at least a thinner one that it flexes, so I dont get an even scrape, maybe a thicker one would be a good idea for more precise scraping).

[Pow4Brains]

Between this thread and linked ones, I can't seem to find where to "de-tune" the edge at the tip and tails. Is the 2-3" of de-tuning from the last "contact point" or from the tip and tail of the ski? How much should you knock off the edge to de-tune it?
On a side note, what are people running for side and base bevel?
Thanks

[RShea]

Many (at least top skiers and racers) are looking at de-tuning skis as a thing of the past that went out with straight skis. The shape skis help initiate the turn and the sharp edges for the full lenght only enhance the carving experience. Others may be able to comment on powder, trick or mogel style skiing, and other situations other than groomed trails, hard packed, even race courses that I have experience with. I had a tune of skis where the shop detuned and they seemed to have a few second delay from the time they were placed on edge until the turn would start to initiate . I hated the idea of a tune telling me to plan to turn before you want to make the turn start.

As for the edge- each ski manufacturer may have a different factory specification (some are .5 base or 1 degree base, 2 or 3 degeee side- but others are different. Do a search (or look at a Tognar catalog) for the manufacturer specs and then decide if you want to deviate from the standard- most racers do their own thing with a 3 degree side being more aggressive. So powder or free skiers may like to have the side at 1 or 2 degree for a less agressive feel. Start with the factory though and read up on the merits of changing either of the settings.

[upallnight]

Between this thread and linked ones, I can't seem to find where to "de-tune" the edge at the tip and tails. Is the 2-3" of de-tuning from the last "contact point" or from the tip and tail of the ski? How much should you knock off the edge to de-tune it?
On a side note, what are people running for side and base bevel?
Thanks

detune from the contact points to the ends of the skis. take a pocket stone with you on your first day out. if you find the ski grabby, then detune an inch or two toward the center...and keep doing that until you get the performance you want.

it's really personal preference and highly ski-dependent. doing it on-hill is the best way until you figure it out where you fall in terms of preferences.

[wilcox510]

UAN - so from the thread you linked above it sounds like you're a fan of 1 degree base and side edge bevel (this would be for my "I dont actually own them quite yet" 179 BROs that will soley be a touring ski)?

[Toby]

Splat used to recommend 1° base, 2° side for original 188 Bros. Seems like a good general recommendation for all Bros considering their intended use.

[Pow4Brains]

Rshea, thanks for the input. I understand there is a lot of “preference” and “ski type” specifics, but I am just looking for a good starting point (most of my skis don’t have much side cut). It seems you can go more without using up as much edge as you would if you had to go less.

[upallnight]

UAN - so from the thread you linked above it sounds like you're a fan of 1 degree base and side edge bevel (this would be for my "I dont actually own them quite yet" 179 BROs that will soley be a touring ski)?

1 pretty much throw 1 & 1 on everything, although occasionally if i am skiing something dicey i will go aggressive on the edge underfoot -- the middle 1/3 of the ski only. i do this on all skis i ride.

can't tell you for sure how this will be on the 179 bros, but when i get mine i will be putting that very tune on them. it's pretty versatile and easy to maintain, but, like any single solution, it does compromise in some areas. for instance, it's not the absolute best if you're skiing only ice.

i tend to ride all conditions on all my boards, so that's the way i go.

[upallnight]

Rshea, thanks for the input. I understand there is a lot of “preference” and “ski type” specifics, but I am just looking for a good starting point (most of my skis don’t have much side cut). It seems you can go more without using up as much edge as you would if you had to go less.

i read that last sentence 3 times and still have no idea what it means.

pow4b... do your tune. detune the edges in front of/behind the contact points. ski 500 vert. detune back an inch or 2. ski 500 more vert. detune another 1-2". repeat until satisfied.

i bet you'll like ~3"....but, honestly, it takes under a minute to kick out of your binding & detune the edges. you'll have this whole thing (including the skiing) done in under 10 minutes...and you'll know what is best for you + those specific skis, rather than me telling you what my preference is on skis that don't match yours.

it's honestly very easy. you can even use any rock around the ski area if you don't have a pocket stone.

i do this on the first run of every new pair of skis that i tune (not every tune, but after the first tune).

[upallnight]

Many (at least top skiers and racers) are looking at de-tuning skis as a thing of the past that went out with straight skis. The shape skis help initiate the turn and the sharp edges for the full lenght only enhance the carving experience.

not sure that detuning "went out"...but it is advisable to use the manufacturer's tune like RShea says until you know what you're doing. skis with extreme shape (NOT necessarily fat skis) have different characteristics that can be nullified if putting a standard tune on there.

even more reason to be conservative and try it out a bit at a time if you're going to do it.

[wilcox510]

Question - I read something saying that if youre going to first use a file then a stone for the base edges, that you need to increase the bevel angle between the file and the stone. For instance, if you want a one degree base bevel, you should actually use a .75 degree guide when using the file then a one degree guide when using the stone. Is this necessary, or can you just use the one degree guide for both?

[Pow4Brains]

i read that last sentence 3 times and still have no idea what it means.

UAN – Yeah, after reading it again, my question is hard to understand, sorry. I should have clarified I am asking about edge angle. My point is, if you put 3 degrees in to start and you want to go back to 1, you’ll end up having to remove more material than if you started at 1 and worked your way up. So I guess my question is, is there a “rule of thumb” for what edge angle to start with for straightish mid fats? Hope the pic helps and thanks in advanced.



Edit 4: Never fuggin' mind, I just saw this..............Open yer eyes son

1 pretty much throw 1 & 1 on everything, although occasionally if i am skiing something dicey i will go aggressive on the edge underfoot -- the middle 1/3 of the ski only. i do this on all skis i ride.

[Pow4Brains]

One more jong tuning question……….Is there a "hardware store" solvent that can be used to remove wax instead of the stuff you can buy from Togar? i.e. denatured alcohol or mineral spirits

[upallnight]

One more jong tuning question……….Is there a "hardware store" solvent that can be used to remove wax instead of the stuff you can buy from Togar? i.e. denatured alcohol or mineral spirits

p4b...you basically never want to use those solvents on the base of a ski. they do the job you're after...sure....but they do more damage than good in the form of drying out the base.

the best way to clean a base is to wax & hot scrape it...at least twice. swix base prep wax is quite good for this. you generally want a cheap, warmer wax as you're literally doing the scraping immediately. the heat will draw the impurities and old wax to the surface...and the softer wax will penetrate the base & replace it.

if you simply must use some type of wax remover, only do it once and know why you are doing it. repeated use of it will kill your bases.

[Pow4Brains]

if you simply must use some type of wax remover, only do it once and know why you are doing it. repeated use of it will kill your bases.

I was thinking it was needed prior to doing a base weld. I have brushed out the area really well with a brass brush, but was assuming as with any welding, cleanliness is godliness, no?