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Thread: Ask the experts
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01-03-2024, 12:26 PM #12776
I don't think aerodynamic drag was the concern he was posting about. Just the idea of four loose 12" or so straps flapping in the breeze and slapping the tailgate paint and bike forks.
Personally, I've never felt strapping the pad in to be that big of an issue:
1) A primary advantage of a TG pad is that you rarely have to remove it.
2) As stated above, most pads I've dealt with have things to stiffen the strap, making it easy to slide in place. Just tilt the gate back a few degrees.Last edited by Roxtar; 01-03-2024 at 03:14 PM.
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01-03-2024, 12:34 PM #12777
Yeah, not too worried about the drag, just stuff flapping around and buckles on that side of the equation to beat on the tailgate paint.
eta that any road grime etc would likely accumulate there more as well.www.dpsskis.com
www.point6.com
formerly an ambassador for a few others, but the ski industry is... interesting.
Fukt: a very small amount of snow.
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01-03-2024, 12:35 PM #12778Registered User
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- northern BC
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I didnt find a tailgate pad enough of a problem to remember how to instal one, i paid 25$ for a used one
Are they still a thing ? shop bro told me he still had a 2 yr supply of tailgate pads kicking around, somewhere in my travels I seen a cardboard fridge crate draped over a tailgate with " Dakine " written on it in black sharpie
so its almost like you can use anything and BTW if you put a rip/ hole in your tailgate pad the fix is wait for it ...
Aqua sealLee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
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01-03-2024, 12:56 PM #12779
Planet Cyclery (same place as Colorado Cyclist now, it seems) has the same wheelset, same price.... and 8% Active Junky CB.
https://planetcyclery.com/dt-swiss-x...ne-29-wheelset
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01-03-2024, 01:00 PM #12780Registered User
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Tieing off the strap ends is a lot easier than trying to fish the damn straps up from below through the gap. I don't leave it on all the time. Usually when I'm installing it, it's at 6:30am in the dark before I go pick people up.
The SendIt one Smokan refers to is even better - you drop a loop down from above, hook it onto a G-hook, then tighten it up on the inside. Plus has reinforced security holes for a cable lock so the doesn't walk away in the parking lot.
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01-03-2024, 01:21 PM #12781
That Send it does look very nice. Never had a problem with fishing up the straps, but I keep mine on almost the whole summer.
www.dpsskis.com
www.point6.com
formerly an ambassador for a few others, but the ski industry is... interesting.
Fukt: a very small amount of snow.
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01-03-2024, 02:38 PM #12782
Anyone had any time on the new Yeti SB140?? I’m intrigued by it but doesn’t seem to be many out in the wild yet
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01-03-2024, 03:17 PM #12783
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01-04-2024, 06:42 AM #12784
Question for the experts. I’m 6’3 and riding an S6 stumpy evo. Love the bike but my riding spot closest to home is super slow tech and I’m bashing my 170mm cranks all over the place, even with running a bit more psi in the shock and suspension in high setting. So I’m increasingly short crank curious. Do I just bump to 165? Go to 160? Feels weird, esp since running 180s on my old SS. Also mindful that if my crank is shorter I’ll have to run my seat a bit higher—and I’m already running my post quite high as is.
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01-04-2024, 07:59 AM #12785
Hmmmm…. Maybe add a Cascade link for more mid-stroke support so you sit a bit higher on the bike when you’re pedaling? Plus IMO, it makes the Stumpy EVO feel way better overall.
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01-04-2024, 08:50 AM #12786Registered User
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You can also run a 170mm fork. I did that on my Levo when I felt like the BB was too low even with a Cascade link and the high flip chip setting. Much better now IMO. Especially since with these bikes having a built in angleset cup so you can offset some of the head angle change (+10mm fork with neutral cup is similar to running the slack cup).
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01-04-2024, 11:22 AM #12787Dad core
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- Back in Seattle
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If you steepen the head angle and shorten the wheelbase you will also improve breakover clearance and I think the stumpy can do that. I feel your pain on the long low bike pedal strikes but it feels so good one you can open it up that I just deal and try to ratchet. High hub engagement could help with that strategy too.
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01-04-2024, 11:29 AM #12788
I wouldn't hesitate to try 160 or even 155 cranks. I put 160 on my Rail and after a few mins can't feel a difference from 170. But does have fewer pedal strikes for sure. Canfield had their cranks on sale recently. Maybe still are? Maybe being tall, going too short wont work as well for you.
You should be able to sell them if you don't like them.
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01-05-2024, 12:24 AM #12789Registered User
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- Oct 2017
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Anyone know the odds of getting into Leadville through the lottery?
Ive tried 4-5x previously and never gotten in. Im in again this year…
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01-05-2024, 10:56 AM #12790
In case anyone cares, that DT Swiss superboost wheelset is now even cheaper - $349 today at Planet Cyclery, on a flash sale.
I emailed them to ask for a price adjustment, since it's now $25 less than when I bought it - and my wheelset hasn't even arrived yet, so hoping they'll send me back $25.
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01-05-2024, 01:26 PM #12791
Is changing to regular boost just an endcap/redish?
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01-05-2024, 02:26 PM #12792Registered User
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- Evergreen Co
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01-05-2024, 11:37 PM #12793
still trying to wrap my brain around the high cost i paid for 32 i9 spokes- when i got thinking - could i have just used sapim straight pull strokes instead? or any other equivalent much cheaper straight pull spoke?
Do I detect a lot of anger flowing around this place? Kind of like a pubescent volatility, some angst, a lot of I'm-sixteen-and-angry-at-my-father syndrome?
fuck that noise.
gmen.
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01-06-2024, 12:20 AM #12794
What wheelset was it? Are they the alloy spokes on a I9system wheel that thread into the hub? If so, that’s your only choice afaik.
They build some wheels with regular spokes, those are conventional spoke/nipple construction
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01-06-2024, 10:00 AM #12795
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01-06-2024, 11:06 AM #12796
No, but you could (or have a shop) relace to a boost hub.
Lacing in a new 350 boost hub would transfer over directly.
The spoke calcs are identical on NDS and <1mm shorter on the drive side.
Reuse spokes and nipples.
Cost of new hub.
Cost of lace, true, tape.
Sell super boost hub.
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01-10-2024, 10:44 AM #12797Registered User
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- Mar 2008
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- 129
Did a service on my Float DPS rear shock a few weeks ago. It sits horizontal on the bike. I'm noticing a tiny bit of float fluid seeping out the bottom of the threaded interface between the air sleeve and the eyelet cap. Not sure if its just residual fluid that was in the threads or a sign of something else wrong. Any ideas? It seems to be holding pressure fine and appears to be tightened all the way down.
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01-12-2024, 03:00 PM #12798one of those sickos
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This thread seems like the place to put this. It's real engineering innovation in cycling!
TLDR: they moved the freehub mechanism to the brake disc side, allowing it to be larger. This also means that the bearings are farther outboard on the (huge diameter) axle, so that there is no bending of the axle. Stiffer hub=longer lasting bearings & fewer broken rear axles.
https://www.k-o-m.co.uk/xeno-hub
Peak Torque did a big, detailed breakdown.
https://youtu.be/qO6DUSKhbRU?si=dIqx-kYLkqStxLJHride bikes, climb, ski, travel, cook, work to fund former, repeat.
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01-12-2024, 03:48 PM #12799
That looks really cool. Seems like a good, logical design, and I'm impressed they kept the weight as low as they did. I suspect the proprietary disc brake is going to limit it's success somewhat though.
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01-12-2024, 04:02 PM #12800one of those sickos
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I was impressed. PT says their discs are super high quality and should be very long lasting, but it would certainly be wise for the early adopters to grab a spare. The cost is pretty nuts, but for those who want the latest and/or who break axles often, it's probably worth it.
ride bikes, climb, ski, travel, cook, work to fund former, repeat.
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